Imagine yourself in Paris, hungry, sans reservations, but with a serious hankering for veal blanquette. If such a happy fate befalls you -- and you can’t rustle up a Left Bank native for a bistro ...

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Note: From “The Bistros, Brasseries and Wine Bars of Paris,” by Daniel Young. Young calls for skin-on cod fillets but The Times’ Test Kitchen used the more widely available skinless. Bristol Farms ...